Enter how much electricity you use, the peak sun hours where you live, and the panels you plan to fit. The calculator returns the system size in kilowatts, how many panels that is, the roof area they take up, and roughly how much the system will generate in a year.
Take the kWh figure straight off your electricity bill and pick the matching period.
100% covers your whole bill. Grid-tie owners often set 80% to avoid over-exporting; off-grid systems are usually sized at 120% or more.
Typical value: 0.18 (18%). A blended figure covering inverter, wiring, soiling, shading, mismatch and temperature. Use the panel output calculator if you want temperature modelled separately.
The RV and campervan version of this calculator starts from a fully itemised van load and carries it through to panel count by region, the 12V battery bank in lithium and AGM, and the charge controller that matches.
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DC cable ampacity with the ambient and bundling corrections, how far each size runs at 12, 24 and 48 V, PV string fuse sizes from Isc, and battery-to-inverter current by inverter size. Three pages, made to pin by the battery bank.
A solar array has to cover your daily energy use despite real-world losses. The system size in kilowatts is:
Dividing that by the rating of one panel and rounding up gives the panel count, and the panel count times the panel rating gives what you actually end up installing:
A household uses 900 kWh a month (about 29.6 kWh a day), sits in a region with 4.5 peak sun hours, expects 18% system losses, wants to cover 100% of its use, and is fitting 400 W panels.
The loss factor is the gap between a panel's nameplate rating and what actually reaches your load. Typical contributors: inverter efficiency (about 4%), DC and AC wiring resistance (about 2%), temperature derating (about 4.5% averaged over a year), soiling (about 2%), shading (about 2%) and module mismatch (about 2%). PVWatts v8's own default balance-of-system figure is about 14% and excludes temperature; the 18% default here is that budget plus an annual-average temperature loss, so it can be used on its own. Installs with microinverters or optimisers and short cable runs sit below it.
The temperature figure is the one most often overstated. A panel running at 45 °C loses about 7% of its output, but that is a summer midday cell temperature, not a yearly one. Across a British or northern-European year, cold-season operation runs at or below the 25 °C rating condition and loses nothing at all, which pulls the annual weighted figure down to roughly 3 to 4.5%.
If you use the panel output calculator as well, do not carry this 18% across to it. That tool takes 14% and applies temperature separately, and entering 18% there would count temperature twice. The two are deliberately different numbers describing the same system, and they agree to within 0.1% when that tool is given an annual-average cell temperature of about 38 °C. Its 45 °C default is a summer midday figure, so leaving it there makes the annual answer about 2.5% pessimistic.
To run the calculation the other way, starting from an array you already have or have been quoted and ending at kilowatt-hours, use the solar panel output calculator, which separates cell temperature out of the loss budget rather than blending it in. Cable losses are the one part of that budget you control after the panels are chosen. Size the DC runs with the solar cable size calculator and check the drop with the DC voltage drop calculator.
Peak sun hours (PSH) is not the number of daylight hours. It is the equivalent number of hours per day at full rated irradiance (1000 W/m²), which is the condition panels are rated at. A site receiving 5 kWh/m² per day has 5 peak sun hours, whether that arrives as five bright hours or ten dim ones.
| Region | Typical PSH (h/day) | Winter low |
|---|---|---|
| US Southwest (Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico) | 5.5 – 7.5 | 4.0 |
| US South, Texas, Florida | 5.0 – 6.0 | 3.5 |
| US Midwest and Northeast | 3.5 – 5.0 | 2.0 |
| US Pacific Northwest | 3.5 – 4.5 | 1.5 |
| UK and Ireland | 2.5 – 3.5 | 0.8 |
| Northern Europe | 2.8 – 3.6 | 1.0 |
| Southern Europe | 4.0 – 5.5 | 2.5 |
| Australia (most areas) | 4.5 – 6.5 | 3.0 |
| Canada (southern) | 3.0 – 5.0 | 1.8 |
Approximate annual averages, with a typical December figure for reference. Off-grid systems should be sized on the winter figure, not the annual average, because there is no grid to fall back on. Use NREL PVWatts (US), PVGIS (Europe and global) or NASA POWER for site-specific data.
Divide your daily kWh use by your peak sun hours, then divide again by one minus your loss factor. A home using 30 kWh a day at 4.5 peak sun hours with 18% losses needs about 8.1 kW. The system size depends far more on your consumption and your location than on the brand of panel you buy, which is why the calculator asks for those two figures first.
Take the system size in watts and divide by the rating of one panel, then round up. An 8.7 kW system built from 400 W panels needs 22 panels (8700 divided by 400 is 21.75, rounded up). Higher-wattage panels mean fewer of them and less roof area, but the total kilowatts you need does not change.
Peak sun hours is the number of hours per day at which the sun delivers exactly 1000 W/m2, the standard test condition panels are rated at. It is not the same as daylight hours. A site receiving 4.5 kWh/m2 per day has 4.5 peak sun hours even if the sun is up for 14 hours. Use NREL PVWatts, PVGIS or NASA POWER for a figure specific to your postcode, and use the December figure if you are going off-grid.
Not always. On a grid-tied system with poor export rates, sizing to 70 to 90% of annual use often pays back faster, because the last few panels mostly export at a low price. On a net-metered system 100% is the usual target. Off-grid there is no grid to lean on, so size at 120 to 150% of use, on winter peak sun hours, and pair it with a battery bank sized for several days of autonomy.
A typical 400 W residential panel is about 1.9 to 2.1 square metres, so the calculator estimates 2 m2 per panel. An 8.8 kW system of 22 panels needs roughly 44 m2 (470 ft2) of unshaded roof, before you add spacing for walkways, fire setbacks and mounting rails. Allow 20 to 30% more area than the bare panel figure on a real roof.
Continue with these related solar tools
Daily, monthly and annual kWh from an array you already have, with cell temperature handled separately
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